The largest of the three Baltic states, Lithuania has much that will enchant both first-time and seasoned visitors. Start your trip in the beautiful, lively capital Vilnius, which is a great base for explorations. You might then head west from the capital to visit the second city Kaunas, before continuing on to the Baltic coast, where miles of glorious white sand beckon. The shore runs all the way from party town Palanga down to the geologically impressive Curonian Spit, a long thin finger of land coated in pine forests and fishing villages, the most rewarding of which is Nida.
Vilnius is seven hundred years old and still evolving, with the Lithuanian capital a destination that’s firmly on the rise. Begin your discovery of the city by exploring the Old Town, where churches, palaces, restaurants and shops vie for space within the quarter’s tightly coiled alleyways.
Katedros aikštė is dominated by an impressive neoclassical cathedral and the flamboyant Grand Duke’s Palace. Equally flamboyant, if in a different way, is the self-proclaimed Republic of Užupis on the right bank of the Vilnele. Take a stroll along the riverbank here, peppered with unique art installations, to discover this distinct neighbourhood of free-spirited artists and intellectuals. The ‘republic’ even has its own currency and constitution.
One of the best places to stay in Vilnius is Hotel Pacai, a member of Design Hotels, which occupies a Baroque palace in the Old Town and boasts a spa, hammam and glossy marble interiors. Another fine option is the refined Courtyard Vilnius City Center, overlooking Gediminas Castle.
Lying one hundred or so kilometres west of Vilnius, the country’s second city and former capital Kaunas was European Capital of Culture in 2022. Head straight to the heart of the Old Town, centred on Town Square, which is encased by fifteenth-century Gothic merchant’s houses, before sampling some of the offerings of the city's various museums. Kaunas’ Jewish history is evident in the shape of the city’s sole surviving synagogue, as well as a museum dedicated to the little known Japanese consul Chiune Sugihara, who saved thousands of lives during the Second World War.
If you’re overnighting here, consider Moxy Kaunas Center, a large, modern hotel overlooking the Nemunas River.
The undisputed jewel of Lithuania’s Baltic coast is Palanga, a picturesque town with wide avenues and red-and-blue painted Scandinavian-style log houses.
Amber is known in Lithuania as “Baltic Gold” and you can learn about its significance at the Amber Museum in the grounds of Palanga’s botanical garden, where there’s an extraordinary collection of objects, including amber-gilded tools and some prehistoric insects trapped inside the honeyed gold. Whatever you do, don’t miss the town’s musical fountain, a dazzling interplay of music, light and water. For something more high octane, there are dozens of nightclubs, restaurants and open-air cafés packed cheek-by-jowl along the town's main drag, Basanavičiaus Street.
Some 85km further south along the coast from Palanga is the Curonian Spit National Park, a UNESCO-protected, 98km-long tongue of land poking into the Baltic Sea; the spit itself separates the wildlife-rich Curonian lagoon from the sea. Wolves still roam its thick forests, though you are more likely to see wild boar, deer and elk, seals and dolphins, and exciting birdlife like storks and great cormorants. Spend an afternoon in the old fishing village of Nida and learn more about the local trade at the fisherman’s homestead, built in 1927, and the Curonian Spit History Museum, complete with much fishing paraphernalia. In Nida, you can shop for amber jewellery at AV17 and climb the 52-metre high Parnidis sand dune, from where there are tremendous views across to the Russian enclave of Kalingrad.
When in Vilnius, be sure to visit the magnificent, glass-covered Hales Market, which has been serving up fresh local produce such as smoked meats, cheeses, and honey since 1906. The Baltic Porter served by the many bars here is worth sampling. Another good stop in the capital is Mykolo4, for traditional Lithuanian cuisine such as marinuoti grybai (marinated mushrooms) with potato pancakes. Keep an eye out, too, for a form of Lithuanian comfort food called vedarai, a sausage featuring potato packed inside pig's intestine.
In Palanga, try Žuvine for fabulous fresh seafood. Start with smoked eel and rye bread before moving onto inventive dishes like Atlantic halibut with black quinoa.
If visiting Nida, join the locals at Kuršis for a long lunch of chilled beetroot soup, cepelinai (also known as zeppelins), which are succulent potato parcels stuffed with meat, and grilled herring.
When in Vilnius, take a funicular from the Applied Art Museum to Gediminas’ Hill to enjoy the views. Another great vantage point is the Three Crosses monument in Kalnai Park. Nearby Table Hill, meanwhile, is perfect for a bracing early morning walk.
There are awesome citywide views in Kaunas from the top of the 70m-high tower of the gleaming white Christ’s Resurrection Church. Another fun thing to do in Kaunas is to watch a basketball game featuring local heroes and perennial champions Žalgiris. Basketball is incredibly popular in Lithuania, especially in Kaunas.
Your first stop in Palanga should be the 18km-long, dune-sheltered beach of pure white sands and crystal-clear waters. There’s an excellent boarded cycle track that winds through the heart of towering dunes and pine forests. Tackle it on two wheels or even on horseback.
Thirty kilometres west of Vilnius, Trakai is a worthwhile excursion owing to its two fortresses: Peninsula Castle and Island Castle. From the latter you can rent a boat or, if you’re feeling more adventurous, a yacht.
One unmissable sight between Kaunas and the coast is the Hill of Crosses, just outside the city of Šiauliai. Lithuania’s premier place of pilgrimage, this 60m-high hill is a startling spectacle, laced with somewhere between 150,000 and 200,000 crosses (wooden and metal), statues and effigies. The hill is open year-round, 24 hours a day.
Lithuanian is one of the oldest languages in existence, and closely related to Latin and Greek. A couple of useful words to help you get by include Labas ('Hello' or 'Good Day') and Ačiu (as in 'Achoo') meaning 'Thank you'.
Published: October 07, 2024
Article Tags: Kaunas , Lithuania , Palanga , Vilnius
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