A Guide to Montenegro: What to Do and Where to Stay

Montenegro (‘Black Mountain’) is utterly enchanting – and thanks to the country's size, you can see a lot of its highlights in one trip. Start by soaking up the historical riches of Cetinje and Podgorica, Montenegro's old and new capitals, before discovering some of the riches of the 294km-long Adriatic coast. Kotor and Budva are two standout seaside stars, but leave time to discover the coast's wealth of sandy bays and secluded coves, atmospheric wetlands and white-stone fishing villages. For adventure lovers, Montenegro's rugged, wildlife-rich interior awaits.

The best places to visit in Montenegro

The Gulf of Kotor

When visiting Perast, be sure to take a water-taxi over to the picturesque Our Lady of the Rock islet (Photo: Getty Images)

One of the best places to visit in Montenegro is undoubtedly the Gulf of Kotor (Boka Kotorska). This narrow inlet flows into what is sometimes called Europe’s most southerly 'fjord' (although, technically speaking, it is actually a sunken riverbed). 

Encircled by soaring rock faces rising sheer from the water’s edge, the Gulf’s big highlight is Kotor Town, whose labyrinth of narrow streets feature sumptuous patrician palaces and ancient churches, such as the Gothic Cathedral of St Tryphon. The less-visited Romanesque Church of St Luke, a diminutive structure of immense beauty, is also well worth your time. There are also lots of great places to eat and fantastic dishes to try in Kotor – not least the signature grilled octopus salad at Galion. Enjoy a leisurely lunch here before tackling Kotor's formidable ramparts to the fortress of St Ivan – the superlative views are well worth the effort.

An easy trip from Kotor is Tivat, where you can admire super-yachts at Porto Montenegro. The Porto Montenegro area is also home to the Naval Heritage Museum, the highlight of which is the opportunity to clamber inside the Heroj, a decommissioned, dry-docked Yugoslav submarine. Another irresistible spot seaside is Perast, a half-hour drive from Tivat, with its stately waterside palaces and the islet of Our Lady of the Rock, reached via water-taxi.

The Budva Riviera

The stunning Budva Riviera is richly endowed with sandy beaches, including this one at Jaz (Photo: Getty Images)

Fizzing with energy, the Budva Riviera boasts the sandiest beaches anywhere along the Dalmatian coast. Both Jaz and Slovenska beaches provide lots of water-bound activities, while those on Sv Nikola Island will appeal if you're seeking a more leisurely experience. The old town, grafted onto its own sunny promontory south of Slovenska, offers a dose of culture, not least the town museum, home to a dazzling hoard of ornamented gold jewellery.

Further south, beyond the gorgeous fishing village of Pržno, the unmissable Sveti Stefan is the coast’s most strikingly picturesque spot. Here, two great arcs of soft golden sand frame a slender isthmus leading to a peninsula crowned by an attractive fisherman’s village.

Cetinje and Podgorica

Montenegro’s modern-day capital, Podgorica, enjoys a wonderfully scenic setting (Photo: Getty Images)

The contemporary tranquillity of Montenegro’s former royal capital, Cetinje, belies its storied past. Begin your time here with an exploration of the old royal palace, otherwise known as King Nikola’s Museum, named after Montenegro’s last monarch. Across from the palace lies the Biljarda, one-time residence of Petar II Petrović Njegoš – founder of the modern Montenegrin state – and named after the billiard table that was supposedly hauled up here via the Lovćen Pass.

Forty kilometres east of Cetinje, Montenegro’s modern-day capital, Podgorica, has its own enduring appeal, with a collection of enlightening museums, gorgeous Orthodox churches and vestigial remains from the Ottoman Empire – not to mention a nightlife scene rarely bettered in the Balkans.

Ulcinj

With its mosques and Turkish-style houses, Ulcinj feels quite different to the settlements further north along the coast (Photo: Getty Images)

Beyond the olive groves around Bar, the coast takes on an eastern flavour – most notably in Ulcinj, where Turkish-style houses and minaret-topped mosques huddle around the bay. One interesting thing to do here is to take a walk up to the Old Town, where the Museum of Local History recalls the town’s colourful Ottoman past.

What to eat and drink in Montenegro

Rakija is a punchy plum brandy that is thought a delicacy in Montenegro – the monks of Cetinje Monastery are famed for their rakija (Photo: Getty Images)

One dish to try when visiting Durmitor is the region's signature creation Brav u Mlijeku – oven-baked lamb in milk with fennel. Sample it at Javorovaca in the main Durmitor resort town of Žabljak. Another delicious dish to try is crni rižot or black risotto, where the colour comes from squid ink. Keep an eye out for this squid- and cuttlefish-packed delicacy on menus right along the coast.

Just outside of central Cetinje – a twenty-minute walk – lies beautiful Cetinje Monastery. While it's worth a visit simply to admire the architecture and atmosphere, you might also take the opportunity to sample some of the monastery’s home-made rakija, a punchy plum brandy.

Montenegro’s finest vineyards are to be found high above the shores of Skadar. Testimony to the country’s burgeoning reputation as a first-class wine-growing destination is the red Vranac variety (pronounced 'Vrahnahts'), which goes deliciously well with local cuisine.

Top things to do in Montenegro

The Tara Canyon is Europe's deepest and one of Montenegro's UNESCO World Heritage sites (Photo: Getty Images)

If you're in Cetinje, it’s just a short drive west to Lovćen National Park. This magical moonscape of bleached limestone slopes and huge karst boulders is a great introduction to Montenegro's wilder side. Another interesting thing to do while you're in Lovćen is to visit the final resting place of Njegoš, whose mausoleum, hewn from a single block of granite by the pre-eminent Croatian sculptor Ivan Meštrović, surmounts Jezerski Vrh (1660m): the vista from here rates among the most memorable in the Balkans.

To get really adventurous, head far inland and take on the stupendous drive to Durmitor, whose rugged peaks embrace a steady stream of hikers and skiers. Your first stop should be the Tara Canyon – Europe’s deepest canyon, at 1300m – and the go-to destination for adrenaline junkies, especially rafters and kayakers. 

Mammals including bears and wolves roam these primeval forests, while vast alpine meadows harbour a wide range of endemic flora. On the western margins of Durmitor, the theatrical Piva Canyon is the site of the brilliantly frescoed Piva Monastery, remarkable for having been moved here – brick-by-brick – from another site some 8km away in the 1970s.

The far southeastern corner of the country, on the Albanian border, is another good spot for hiking. Here, the Prokletije Mountains invite the intrepid to tackle their dramatic peaks.

If you're looking for alternative things to do when visiting Ulcinj, you might journey through the Sozina Tunnel to island-studded Lake Skadar. One of Europe’s most important bird reserves, the lake is home to large numbers of Dalmatian Pelicans, among many others. It’s worth organising a trip out on the water by kayak.

Hidden gems in Montenegro

Biogradska Gora is a gorgeous mix of virgin forest, mountain pasture and glacial lakes that you can hire a wooden boat to row on (Photo: Getty Images)

One of the most unique things to do around Cetinje is to delve deep into the underworld at the magnificent Lipa Cave, which features a wonderful array of curious formations dating back millions of years. Afterwards enjoy some refreshments at the cave site's café while you take in the mountainous surrounds.

East of Durmitor lies the enchanting Biogradska Gora. The smallest of the country’s five national parks, Biogradska Gora is an invigorating mix of virgin forest, mountain pasture and glacial lakes, the most prominent of which is Biogradska Jezero, where you can hire small wooden rowing boats from the kiosk. The main hub in the area is the lovely little mountain resort of Kolašin, where one of the best places to stay is the Four Points by Sheraton Kolasin – expect cosy wood-panelled rooms set within an attractive alpine-style building, alongside a restaurant, gym and spa. 

Go deeper

Montenegrin, the official language of Montenegro, is almost identical to Serbian and not too far from Croatian. So it is actually a very useful language to know – even if it is just the odd word – if you happen to be travelling in any of these countries. Start with 'hvala' (pronounced 'hvah-lah') for 'thanks', molim ('mo-leem') for 'please', 'zdravo' ('zdrah-voh') for hello and doviđenja ('doh-vee-dje-nyah') for goodbye.

Published: December 01, 2022

Article Tags:  Montenegro