Surfer in the Basque Country

The Basque Country is a very different Spain to the one that you know – it’s green, mountainous and wild. Its three main cities – Bilbao, San Sebastian and Vitoria-Gasteiz offer world class gastronomy, superb art and fascinating history in equal measure. While its natural highlights are best discovered in summer or early autumn, its cities can be visited at any time of year, and its friendly and proud people will be happy to show them off to you.

The best places to visit in the Basque Country

San Sebastian

San Sebastian
San Sebastian is known as Spain’s gastronomic capital

San Sebastian is known for many things, but above all for being Spain’s gastronomic capital. Michelin Stars shine across the city, and historic taverns and pintxos bars crowd the old town. In fact, San Sebastian has more Michelin Stars per capita than any other city in the world.

But there’s more to San Sebastian than just its food. The city is built around the elegant sweep of La Concha beach, overlooked by the 12th-century fortress of Castillo de la Mota. Make sure to look out for Eduardo Chillida’s magnificent El Peine del Viento ‘Wind Comb' sculptures at the far end of the beach. To discover more about San Sebastian’s most famous sculptor, visit the Chillida-Leku museum, just south of the city, and to learn more about Basque history and heritage, head to the San Telmo Museum.

Get the most out of your stay in San Sebastian by booking yourself into one of the best places to stay in the city – the five-star Hotel Maria Cristina, a Luxury Collection Hotel, an opulent palatial style hotel close to the Old Town, which first opened in 1912, and offers spectacular river views.

Bilbao

The Guggenheim Bilbao, designed by Frank Gehry
The Guggenheim Bilbao, designed by Frank Gehry

This former industrial city has been transformed over the past 20 years into a cultural hub, thanks mainly to its artistic offerings. The king of these is, of course, The Guggenheim Bilbao, designed by Frank Gehry. Like a huge titanium ship, it almost seems to sail down the River Nervión, filled with world class works by the likes of Jeff Koons, Louise Bourgeois, Mark Rothko and Eduardo Chillida. The city is also home to the Bilbao Fine Arts Museum and the amazing Azkuna Zentroa, an old wine warehouse redesigned by Philippe Starck to become a surreal and fantastical exhibition space. Just steps from the arts centre, sits the Hotel Ercilla de Bilbao, Autograph Collection, a stylish base with vintage touches.

In addition to its traditional art, in recent years Bilbao has also become celebrated for its incredible street art, where hidden corners of the city have been turned into giant canvases. Find out where to go by booking a place on one of Bilbao’s several street art tours. Foodies won’t be disappointed as Bilbao is home to its fair share of Michelin-starred restaurants, too, and the colourful Casco Viejo, the city’s historic district, is packed with outstanding pintxos (snack) bars. To discover more about the Basques, visit The Basque Museum.

Vitoria-Gasteiz

Vitoria-Gasteiz is the capital of the Basque Country
Vitoria-Gasteiz

Out of the three main cities in the Basque Country, Vitoria-Gasteiz is something of a hidden gem for tourists, but in fact it’s the region’s capital. With fewer crowds and plenty of nearby scenery, it’s one of the best places to stay to explore the Basque Country’s spectacular natural parks, as well as being a destination in its own right. Elegant historic architecture, art and fine cuisine abound in the streets of Vitoria.

Art fans should visit the Artium Museum to see works by the best Basque artists of the 20th century, and the Fine Arts Museum of Álava to learn about Spanish art from the 18th and 19th centuries. There’s also a handful of other museums to explore from the Museo de Armería to learn about medieval warfare, to the Archeological Museum and even the Museo Fournier de Naipes, a playing card museum.

Base yourself just a short walk from the Old Town and the grand Plaza Virgen Blanca at the modern AC Hotel by Marriott General Alava. It also offers a great location from which to explore the city’s excellent gastronomic scene. To explore further, hire a bicycle to ride around the Vitoria’s green belt – a collection of parks, rivers, wetlands and pathways, which wrap around the whole of the city.

What to eat and drink in the Basque Country

Pintxos

Pintxos
Pintxos are to the Basque Country what tapas are to the rest of Spain

Pintxos are to the Basque Country what tapas are to the rest of Spain. They’re typically small slices of baguette topped with all types of ingredients, from local sausage and green peppers to croquettes, octopus or tortilla de patatas (Spanish omelette), all held together with a cocktail stick. The mouthwatering pintxos are all lined up along the bar – simply order your drink and take whichever you want. At the end, all your cocktail sticks will be counted up and you’ll pay accordingly. For some great places to eat pintxos, head to Atari Gastroleku or Borda Berri in San Sebastian.

Seafood

Bacalao al pil pil
The Basques love their seafood

The Basques love their seafood and almost all their traditional dishes contain it in one form or another. The most famous seafood dish however is Bacalao al pil pil, cod fried in olive oil, with garlic and chili pepper. Try one of the best at Restaurante Victor in Bilbao, set right in the heart of the Casco Viejo on Plaza Nueva.

Another seafood delight is marmitako – a fish stew made from bonito fish, peppers, onions and potatoes. Order one at Mariñela-Igeldo in San Sebastian, sitting right by the water. Two Basque delicacies to try are angulas, baby eels cooked in olive oil and garlic, and percebes – goose barnacles.

Txuletón

It’s not just seafood that’s popular in the Basque Country, head into the interior of the region and you’ll discover a meat-lovers’ paradise. Txuletón are huge rib steaks which are grilled over an open fire. You can find txuletón at most traditional Basque restaurants, but for the best, head to the small village of Astigarraga, just south of San Sebastian. This is where the Basque steak is thought to have originated, when the local farmers traded beef for sagardoa or Basque cider. Restaurante Kako is a great place to try this, along with a glass of cider. Another typical meat dish is sukalki, a rich beef ragu or stew. Order one at the restaurant of the same name, Sukalki in Vitoria-Gasteiz.

Top things to do in the Basque Country

Vineyard in the Basque Country
The Basque Country is best known for its white txakoli, a slightly sparkling effervescent wine.

Besides touring its three fascinating cities, one of the best things to do in the Basque Country is to explore its natural attractions. The region boasts a total of eight natural parks, a geopark and a UNESCO biosphere reserve. Begin by exploring the Urdaibai Biosphere Reserve, a vast area in between Bilbao and San Sebastian filled with wetlands, river estuaries, coastlines and myriad bird species. Other interesting things to do include visiting the Gorbeia Natural Park, the largest of the Basque Country’s parks and home to soaring rocky peaks, tumbling waterfalls and verdant forests.

Surfing is big business here thanks to the region’s excellent swell, so don’t miss the chance to get on a board, whether you’re a pro or total beginner. There are surf schools all along the coast, but you could turn your break into a surfing retreat by staying at Hotel Maria Cristina, a Luxury Collection Hotel and heading out to Zurriola beach.

And when you’re done rock climbing, mountaineering, hiking and surfing in the natural parks, you deserve nothing better than a glass of wine. Luckily, the Basque Country isn’t short on those. It’s best known for its white txakoli, a slightly sparkling effervescent wine. For an unmissable wine experience, head to the small town of Eltziego, in the south of the region, near La Rioja. Here you’ll find the fabulous Hotel Marqués de Riscal, a Luxury Collection Hotel. Designed by Frank Gehry, the same architect who designed the Guggenheim in Bilbao, the hotel gleams like a futuristic sculpture, wrapped in twisted titanium that reflects the deep purple of the grapes in the vineyards that surround it. Fun things to do here include a tour of the old Marqués de Riscal bodega, founded in 1658; dinner at the Michelin-starred Restaurante Marqués de Riscal; and indulgent therapies at the vinotherapy spa.

Hidden gems in the Basque Country

San Juan de Gaztelugatxe features as Dragonstone in Game of Thrones
San Juan de Gaztelugatxe features as Dragonstone in Game of Thrones

The Basque Country is packed with unique things to do and has an abundance of off-the-beaten-path attractions. Cheese lovers will delight in a visit to Idiazabal, the town which gave its name to the famous Basque sheep cheese. Here you’ll find the excellent Interpretation and Tasting Centre of Idiazabal Cheese.

As an alternative thing to do, hike the Idiazabal Cheese Route to understand more about the land the cheese is made on. A circular trail of 95 kilometres, it lies partly within the Aizkorri-Aratz Natural Park and takes a week to complete in total.

Travel to the dramatic islet of San Juan de Gaztelugatxe – better known as Dragonstone. This small islet located just off the coast and 35 kilometres northeast of Bilbao was the filming location for Daenerys Targaryen’s home in Game of Thrones. A total of 241 steps form the narrow zigzagging path, which connects it to the mainland.

Other unique things to do in the interior include a visit to the town of Guernica to understand more about the struggles of the Basque people and a tour of the Cristóbal Balenciaga Museum to learn all about the Basque Country’s most celebrated fashion designer.

Go deeper

While Basque or Euskarra is reportedly one of the hardest languages to learn in the world and only 28 percent of Basques actually speak it fluently, you may want to learn a few phrases before you go, as the language is making a comeback. On egin is a phrase you’ll hear often, meaning bon appetit or enjoy or your meal. Jatetxea (restaurant), eskerrik asko (thank you) and topa (cheers) may also come in handy.

The Basques even have their own sports. Pelota is the most popular, where balls are hurled with a long basket or glove at breakneck speeds across the courts. Catch a game in one of the big cities such as Bilbao or San Sebastian.





Published: July 26, 2022

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