How to Spend the Perfect Weekend in Paris, Strasbourg or Bordeaux

With eminently walkable centres that offer up their secrets at a deliciously unhurried pace, France's cities are perfect for a weekend of delight and discovery. Capital Paris is, as they say, always a good idea – and, with a little local knowledge, you can have your own quintessentially Parisian experience in just 48 hours. The south-west’s Bordeaux may be most known for its Bordeaux wine, but there’s plenty else to entice: a pristine historic centre, panoramic river views and inventive fine dining. On France’s border with Germany, Strasbourg offers up a mix of fairytale and futuristic architecture, along with a fascinatingly distinct food culture. 

Immerse yourself in the timeless beauty of Paris

The beautifully manicured gardens of the 17th-century Palais-Royal reward an indulgently unhurried exploration (Photo: Getty Images)

Paris, one of the world’s most visited cities, needs little introduction. You might be tempted never to leave your Didier Gomez-designed room at the Renaissance Paris Vendôme – but after a chat to the hotel's savvy Navigators, your weekend hosts, you'll be inspired to discover the neighbourhood's unexpected pleasures, as well as its iconic sights. First, browse nearby retail golden mile, rue Saint-Honoré (treasure trove Astier de Villatte is a local's favourite), then call into Willi’s wine bar. Have a glass of what the expert sommeliers are pouring on the night – there's no need for a wine list here.

Refreshed and recharged, it’s a short meander up the hill to Petrelle, possibly Paris’ most romantic restaurant, where delicate, seasonal dishes are served in a stage-set interior. Lastly, head to late night bar la Coquille. Dancing on the bar to French electro at dawn? Pas de problème – your bed is but a 15-minute stroll away, and there's 24 hour room service if you're in need of refreshments. 

After morning meditation in the rose-filled scented garden of the Palais Royal, join the neighbourhood's chic set to sip one of Paris' best-made coffees, or a signature 'dirty chai', at Café Nuances, before an immersion in the exquisite Impressionism displayed at the Musée d'Orsay. Lunch might be spring lamb ceremoniously carved at the table at nearby L’Ami Jean, a refined gastronomic temple in a rustic 1930s bar. Then on to Maison Gainsbourg, a deliciously outré house-museum dedicated to the singer and rakish 20th-century icon, Serge Gainsbourg.

Afterwards, cross back over the river, and swap the Marais' Saturday afternoon throng for sweet little rue du Château d'Eau, where you can mix with local creatives at boutiques like La Trésorerie (homewares) and Henriette H (lingerie), as well as thoughtfully curated photography shows and books at Galerie Miranda.

One street over, the retro-futurist lines of the Renaissance Paris République are a local landmark. Call in to browse its Jean Prouvé and Charlotte Perriand-designed furnishings, mixed with found vintage pieces from the likes of Joseph-André Motte, then decide to stay for an apéro and dinner. Restaurant Martin’s is an inspired cocktail list, whether that’s a French riff on the spritz with Lillet and rosemary, or a non-alcholic concoction of mango vanilla with fresh lime. The kitchen, meanwhile, is known for its light, modern French dishes.

As night becomes Sunday morning, take a turn around the Tuileries' formal paths, before a trip along the Seine to Bastille and the Marché Aligre. Bypass the organic fruit and vegetables and instead browse the eclectic brocante stalls – with luck, you may land a vintage designer blouse, an original etching or rare book for just a few euros. For lunch, book La Halle aux Grains, one of Paris’ most coveted addresses, and enjoy three prettily plated courses overlooking the sunlit rotunda of the Bourse de Commerce museum.

Afterwards, wander the extraordinary works from its Pinault collection (contemporary art stars like Maurizio Cattelan, Damien Hurst and Marlene Dumas feature) in the galleries below, before a fragrant farewell tisane in the lush, sun-kissed Solis restaurant at Renaissance Paris Arc de Triomphe Hotel.

Be charmed by the elegant riverside beauty of Bordeaux

Stroll across Bordeaux's Garonne-spanning Pont de Pierre to gain a rich sense of the city's elegance (Photo: Getty Images)

Set in a graceful curve of Aquitaine’s broad River Garonne, Bordeaux is a winsome, winning city. Friday evening, experience the phenomenon of the bar check-in – complimentary cocktail in hand – at Moxy Bordeaux. This playful twist sets the tone at Moxy Bordeaux, where there’s a serious attention to good design, as well as good times. Head up to beach-shack chic Gina just next door, to take in a pink-tinged riverside sunset from one of the city's liveliest rooftops.

Next up, tram to the stately Triangle d’Or district for your table at l'Observatoire du Gabriel. Dishes that evoke river and sea are served in a hushed 18th-century dining room, overlooking the shimmering Miroir d'Eau, the world’s largest reflecting pool. Afterwards, check out the lush decor of Symbiose’s speakeasy bar – finding it is half the fun.

Start your Saturday slowly: grab a healthy granola bowl from the Moxy breakfast bar and head back up stairs for the view overlooking the historic Bassins à Flot from the hammock on your room's own sunny terrace. A short stroll takes you to rue des Notre Dame, in fashionable quartier Chartrons. Hunt down a canelé (the city’s own bite-size burnished, rum-scented custard pastry) from pâtisserie Micheline et Paulette, then browse the antique shops and independent boutiques, like eco-luxe homewares concept store Coutume.

Bordeaux's wine heritage is world-renowned, so gain some insights at the intimate musée du Vin et du Négoce, before wandering back up the quai to bustling Les Halles Bacalan, to sample pintxos, a speciality of the nearby Spanish Basque-country. After lunch, head next door to the beautifully designed Cité du Vin – one of the city's flagship museums – to drink in its interactive exploration of the world of wine. Then relax over the inventive, soulful cooking at Le Cent 33, before late-night music, afloat, at nearby i-Boat.

With Sunday’s peal of bells, it's time to join antique dealers and décor-buffs for for a determined browse around the St Michel flea market. Take your haul along to the busy Marché des Capucins for a pre-lunch plate of briney local oysters at Chez Jean-Mi’s gaggle of bistro tables, before heading across to local’s favourite Au Bistro for farm-fresh terrine and steak with duck fat potatoes.

Afterwards, browse the Musée des Beaux-Arts, one of France’s most comprehensive art collections, and seek out the work by Bordeaux-born Symbolist painter, Odilon Redon. A gentle walk in the meadows of the Jardin Public is always a pleasure, while a 45-minute drive will take you to the charming basin-side town of Arcachon, from where you have easy access to the pretty Petit Nice beach and the majestic Dune du Pilat.

Delight in Strasbourg’s Alsatian heritage and historic heart

Strasbourg's La Petite France offers a charming medley of half-timbered houses, winding canals and stone bridges (Photo: Getty Images)

Strasbourg is a fairytale of a city – pedestrian-friendly and exquisitely picturesque. Friday evening, take a perch at l’Archipel, Strasbourg’s most panoramic bar and restaurant, set atop Residence Inn Strasbourg. From here, you can admire the the fabulous contemporary curves of the European Union Parliament that lie just below, Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Strasbourg’s towering steeple, and the Vosges mountains on the horizon – that said, as the sun sets, it's likely the perfectly mixed forest-fresh gin, raspberry and hazelnut cocktail in your hand that will most grab your attention.

It’s just a ten-minute tram ride from this lovely eyrie (or indeed from your atmospherically deep-toned room at the AC Hotel Strasbourg, which also lies just below) to the river-embraced Grande Île, and the cathedral’s historic surrounds. First make your way to Galerie Chantal Bamberger for one of her shows, both emerging local artists and contemporary big names. Then get to know traditional Alsatian cuisine's Germanic elements with a generous plate of choucroute garnie – sauerkraut and braised pork belly – at cosy Winstub S’Burjerstuewel (Chez Yvonne).

Next morning, try a slice of buttery, brioche-like Kugelhopf, one of the city's most emblematic sweet offerings, before climbing the 300 or so steps of the cathedral’s spire. The tallest building in the world for 200 years, you can glimpse the Black Forest on fine days. Catch your breath as the giant cathedral's giant astronomic clock comes to life and its historic automatons perform.

Up next, another Alsatian speciality: tarte flambée (flam for short). La Fignette’s busy terrace is a fun, welcoming place to try this rich, lardon-studded flatbread. Next, go for an architecture-lover’s stroll: savour the grand, eclectic Place Kleber (do pop in to the hidden Modernist design gem l’Aubette, which opened in 1928 as a presciently forward-looking leisure complex) and then the splendid French Classicism of Rohan Palace. After last night’s Alsatian hearth, tonight’s restaurant, Michelin-anointed de:ja, is dedicated to local, sustainably farmed produce, innovative artisanal techniques, and natural wine. Afterwards, join beer-mad locals at Le Gard Fou, for a postprandial pression or two.

Morning light and Sunday calm adds to of the fairytale enchantment of La Petite France neighbourhood, with its half-timbered houses, winding canals and stone bridges that remain little changed since the 16th century. Then it’s on to the strikingly modern Musée d'Art Moderne et Contemporain. Lunch at Maison Rouge Strasbourg Hotel & Spa, Autograph Collection’s intimate and pretty 1387 restaurant for contemporary takes on Alsatian comfort dishes. Downstairs, at the hotel’s spa, discover vinotherapy: their detoxifying grape seed body scrub is a soothing, wonderfully French way to end your Strasbourg stay.

Published: June 16, 2023

Article Tags:  France