Discovering Out-of-This-World Flavours in Tunisian Capital Tunis

Tunisia has an astonishing culinary heritage and, thanks to its favourable position on the Mediterranean coast, can point to a long history of wine production. Tunis, the country’s capital, does this tradition proud today, offering a melting pot of unforgettable flavours and heady scents that evidence Tunisian cuisine’s Phoenician, French and Andalusian influences. Tables throughout the city are graced with delicious creations that Tunisia lays claim to, like harissa, shakshuka and couscous. Here are 8 restaurants that prove Tunisian food is among the world’s very best.

L’Onzième Rooftop Grill and Bar

Do not miss the smoked seafood platter at L’Onzième Rooftop Bar and Grill (Photo: Marriott International)

Head to the eleventh floor of the Tunis Marriott Hotel and treat your senses to a magnificent meal by the pool at L’Onzième Rooftop Bar and Grill, the lights of the city twinkling below you. The menu here, by chef Laurent Brun, is a culinary work of art: expect beautifully presented plates of food that showcase both modern techniques and traditional wood-fired cooking. Try the crunchy fried prawns inspired by the neighbouring coastal region of Bizerte, zesty salmon ceviche or perhaps the smoked seafood platter, served with tasty couscous. L’Onzième is also an ideal spot to unwind with a few friends for early evening nibbles – the likes of grilled chicken skewers, mini burgers and bruschetta – and, of course, expertly prepared cocktails, as live music plays in the background.

Dar Slah

Nestled under a canopy of bougainvillaea flowers along Rue de la Kasbah you’ll find Dar Slah. ‘Dar’ translates to ‘home’ in Arabic and charming owner Sadri Smoali, who opened his restaurant some thirty years ago, certainly makes you feel like you’ve been welcomed into one. The cooking is home-style, too, with generous chunks of fresh bread offered to soak up the dishes’ deliciously spiced juices, plus freshly prepared dips and dressings. With the goal of supporting local farmers and reducing food waste, Sadri visits the local market every morning to plan his menu according to seasonal produce. Try the squid-ink black couscous, a harmonious melange of delicate, briny flavours and umami depth.

L’Urbain

L’Urbain offers classic and contemporary recipes presented in a creative way (Photo: Marriott International)

With its wood-panelled decor fringed by delicate ferns, the delightfully bright and airy L’Urbain is a relaxing place to start your day in Tunis. Crepes, pancakes with red berries, freshly baked French pastries, a moreish dry fruit medley of apricots and prunes, and even a deep red ojja (another term for shakshuka) are all on offer, and executed perfectly. Later on, the kitchen turns its attention to hearty salads, burgers and grilled chicken from the Josper oven, with influences ranging from North Africa to Europe and the United States. L’Urbain, a fixture of the Tunis Marriott Hotel, also lays on an extensive lunch buffet with a wide array of impressive Tunisian desserts.

Dar El Jeld

Occupying what was once an eighteenth-century mansion, complete with a courtyard dotted with lemon trees, the elegant Dar El Jeld is one of the most atmospheric restaurants in Tunis. The main dining room is stunning: think twinkling chandeliers, large mosaic walls, gilded ceilings, Ionic columns and marble floors. Tunisian classics with a modern twist dominate the menu here, such as tortmech, a traditional Tunisian soup featuring brik danouni (beef-filled dumplings), prepared with Mediterranean flair. For dessert, sample the tarte citron basilic, featuring lemons grown in the courtyard. At breakfast time or for evening drinks with picturesque views of Tunis, take a table on the rooftop.

Walima

Embark on a culinary journey throughout Tunis at Walima (Photo: Marriott International)

Luxurious, vibrant Walima, located in the Sheraton Tunis Hotel, is a great choice for a special occasion. With a colourful glass ceiling and mural-adorned walls, the decor dazzles in true Tunisian style – as does the menu. Choose from expertly cooked local standards such as lablabi (chickpea soup in a light garlic- and cumin-flavoured broth), marqa jelbana (a dark, indulgent, slow-cooked pea stew) and the ras el hanout-spiced lamb chorba. These are dishes that deserve excellent wine – try one of the local Tunisian varieties from the nearby Cap Bon peninsula, which range from sweet Muscats to full-bodied Syrahs.

Fondouk Al Attarine

Fondouk El Attarine was formerly a caravanserai – a place for travellers to break their journey, rest and refuel – and today it fulfils those same functions, just with added contemporary sophistication. Evoking its historical identity, the restaurant occupies an open-air courtyard complex of Corinthian columns and Ottoman arches, with live music often accompanying proceedings. Chalked on a blackboard, the ever-changing menu is a fusion of Mediterranean and Tunisian dishes. The restaurant is especially adept at local favourites like deep-fried filo brik and mbatten brouklou – cauliflower and potato croquettes accompanied by a fiery harissa and tomato sauce. If you’re in the mood for something sweet, try the Tunisian almond custard called zriga. After your meal, browse Fondouk El Attarine’s gallery of jewellery and mosaic-patterned handicrafts. 

Essaraya

Tucked away in the UNESCO-listed Tunis Medina is the locally revered Essaraya. Knock on the restaurant’s mustard-yellow ornamental door and you’ll be greeted by a lantern-touting gentleman who will escort you to your table. The decor is sumptuous: pistachio-coloured wooden chairs, crimson-red satin table cloths, mosaic-embellished walls and big brass lamps, while a marble staircase leads to a turquoise-hued mezzanine level. The menu, meanwhile, is dominated by Tunisian classics. The mezze platter of savoury pastries is a good place to start, before moving on to more substantial dishes such as a standout tomato and fish stew called kabkabou, and maraqat al-safarjal, a rich lamb and quince stew. Be sure to save room for dessert: the assidat zgougou, a custard dessert drizzled with rosewater and almonds, is a must.

Pang’s

Pang's restaurant is an evocative and immersive destination of lifestyle and food experience (Photo: Marriott International)

Chinese-Japanese restaurant Pang’s is a joyous celebration of the abundant fresh seafood landed at the port of Tunis. Housed in the Sheraton Tunis Hotel and led by Chinese Chef Tang Duoling, Pang’s offers a broad selection of sushi, along with other popular Asian dishes such as dim sum and fried rice. Give the 'Pang’s Boat' a try, an array of sushi theatrically garnished with edible flowers, salmon roe, sharp yuzu, and wasabi. The restaurant also takes pride in its chef-d'oeuvre main course of prawns in a fiery and aromatic Kung Pao sauce. To accompany your meal, sip zesty, ginger-infused cocktails made with Japanese sake. The hanging lanterns, murals and decorations that draw inspiration from Asia create a serene and sophisticated ambience.

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Published: March 31, 2023

Article Tags:  Tunisia