For centuries, pilgrims have followed the well-trodden paths of the Camino de Santiago that snake across rural Spain towards Santiago de Compostela. Whether you choose to travel the whole stretch or spend just a few days following the iconic scallop shell markers, you’re set for a transformative experience – strangers invariably become friends along the Camino, swapping stories as they walk side by side, and sharing local culinary treats at the end of each day.
The city of Tudela, in the northern Spanish region of Navarra, is one of the treasures of the Camino de Ebro. This pilgrimage route runs alongside Spain’s second-longest river before it joins up with the more well-travelled French path.
When in town, be sure to enter the famed cathedral through the Door of Judgement with its dramatic depictions of doomsday that have awed pilgrims for centuries.
Locals, meanwhile, fill the bustling terrazas of the Plaza de los Fueros, and the counters of bars showcase fresh produce grown on the fertile banks of the Ebro. Highlights include artichokes, asparagus, stuffed sweet peppers, exquisite Tudela lettuce hearts. Stand at the bar for tapas at Casa Alberto or book a table for a tasting menu at Trinquete.
Just a short stroll from the Muñoz Sola Modern Art Museum, behind 18th-century walls of the former Casa de Beneficencia, guests at the AC Hotel Ciudad de Tudela can enjoy the romantic walled garden or relax with a sauna and Turkish bath – just what a modern-day pilgrim needs.
Some people on the Camino are inspired by the idea of experiencing a spiritual journey; others see it as a way to discover Spain’s landscape, history, culture and gastronomy. For wine lovers, the Camino Frances route through La Rioja provides a unique vantage point to explore a region famed for its vineyards.
Many of the most celebrated wineries can be found along the route, offering guided tours and tastings from an exciting new generation of winemakers. Bodegas Irache even provide a free wine fountain for thirsty pilgrims as they pass through the village of Ayegui on their way to La Rioja.
This section of the Camino offers picturesque villages full of history and legend. Stop off in Viana, the first town you’ll come to when walking from Navarra, then spend a night in the provincial capital of Logroño. Next, the route takes you through Navarrete, famed for its local pottery, Najera and its beautiful monastery, Santa Maria la Real, Azofra, and finally the impressive Santo Domingo de la Calzada.
The city of Logroño is the beating heart of La Rioja wine country, with its lively streets, tree-studded plazas and urban street art inspired by the grape.
The old part of the city is crammed with eateries offering pintxos, the Basque name for tapas. These tasty bites, often as simple as a mushroom and a prawn skewered on a toothpick, accompany some of the best wine produced in Spain.
It’s easy to spend an evening grazing, soaking up the atmosphere centred around Calle Laurel. Alternatively, indulge in one of several Michelin-starred restaurants in the city, such as Ikaro or Ajonegro. You’ll soon discover why Logroño is known as a foodie paradise.
The AC Hotel La Rioja, located on the banks of the Ebro in the University area, provides an ideal base to explore local wineries.
Leaving the vineyards and fertile countryside of La Rioja and Navarra behind, the camino enters the vast plains of Castilla y Leon. This part of the route is known as the meseta, the bread-basket of Spain, with its windswept fields stretching beneath vast skies.
The timeless landscape is interrupted by historic landmarks found in towns and cities along the way. Chief among them is Burgos, the ancient capital of the kingdom of Castile.
The AC Hotel Burgos is just two minutes from the gothic cathedral of Santa María, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and final resting place of the fabled hero El Cid, the 11th-century warrior knight.
Stroll along tree-lined boulevards on the banks of the Arlanzón river. Make sure to try Castilian classics such as slow-roasted lamb (lechazo) and morcilla de Burgos, the local variety of blood sausage.
The ancient seat of the Reconquista lies 309 kilometres (192 miles) east of Santiago de Compostela and has long been a highlight for pilgrims.
The winding streets of the Barrio Húmedo, the nickname for the oldest part of the walled town, unfurl around the vibrant Plaza de San Martin. Here bars such as La Bicha still offer a free tapa served with each glass of vino.
With socialising going on late into the night, you can sample a range of local dishes. Different bars serve up their own specialities such as lengua curada (cured tongue), a dry cured beef called cecina, and León’s softer version of morcilla.
Just a short stroll from the AC Hotel Leon San Antonio is the cathedral. For centuries, pilgrims have been awestruck by the exquisite stained glass of the Rose Window. While nearby you’ll find the Casa de Botines, a modernist delight of a building.
As the Camino Frances leaves the flat plains behind, it meanders through El Bierzo, a fertile pocket on the border of Castilla y Leon before entering Galicia.
Here you’re back in wine country, and a stop off at the AC Hotel Ponferrada is a chance to explore one of Spain’s best-kept secret corners, before heading onwards towards your final destination of Santiago de Compostela.
Pilgrims end their journey in the Plaza Obradoiro beneath the towering spires of the magnificent Baroque cathedral. Many plan their arrival to attend Mass, when the mighty ‘Botafumeiro’ (giant incense burner) swings over the congregation billowing heavy scented smoke.
From the cathedral wander into the casco antiguo, which teems with crowded eateries. The local Albariño white wine pairs perfectly with seafood specialties such as pulpo (octopus), scallops, and Galicia’s range of rice dishes. Try a plate of bite-size peppers pimientos de Padrón and rump steak at the traditional Trebol restaurant or savour succulent clams and locally sourced mussels at La Cueva del Tigre Rabioso.
You can peruse some of this local produce at the Mercado de Abastos, a stone’s throw from the Hotel Palacio Del Carmen, Autograph Collection, which offers guests a wonderfully comfortable stay within a former convent. Its stunning walled garden has unrivalled views of the cathedral towers and its El Camelio’s restaurant blends classic Galician recipes with innovative cooking techniques.
Published: October 07, 2024
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